This was a trip booked with Road Scholar (RS), a tour operator for the over 55 market – retirees with money, but not rich. The attraction to the solo traveler is you can save extra single charges by booking a double with ‘Find Me a Roommate Option’. Single supplement usually runs more than 10% of the trip cost. Yes you will be rooming with a complete stranger, same gender. My feeling is I’m not spending time in the room other than to sleep and use the bathroom. And I’m not sealing a deal for life. I assume we are bound to have something in common as we both chose this trip. This is my 7th trip with RS, results are one time no roommate available, 4 good ones, 2 wackos (fortunately the bipolar one didn’t kill me in my sleep). Solo male travelers are a rarity, and men are adverse to the find a roomie option. Just what is it single men do with their time? Where are they? (Need them for better conversations as long as they don’t resort to mansplaining.)
First up the Azoreans. Most of the time is spent with the group either on a trail, where we met no one, or in a restaurant where we were served a set menu. We were allocated free time so could wander on our own to have some limited interactions with locals. Surprised how many speak English, but considering the high number of connections via immigration with Canada and the U.S. not a surprise. Generally pleasant and helpful from the grocery store clerk to the bus driver. And very strict adherence to mask protocols for this pandemic. The islands have a very low rate of infection even with all the tourists and seem able to keep it low. Locals will request put on your mask should it have slipped or you neglected to bring it. Outdoors is mask free and of course while eating or drinking. So we drank a lot, mostly water not only because we had a powerful thirst but to remove those darn masks absolutely stifling in the high humidity.
On this trip the group had 21 people, 3 of whom were couples – 2 of them married. The rest were single women traveling with a friend, daughter, single supplement and the one who was my roommate. Typically the RS groups run more liberal than not. Discussions refer to PBS, NPR, NYT. No one admits to FOX, and most claim to not watch network television. So I’ve found general commonality with RS travelers. There is a diverse range of professions and travel experience. Lots of first time travelers using the group to venture outside their comfort zone. I use it as I’ve become lazy on travel planning. It is a great forum to exchange travel experiences and learn about other tour groups.
This trip is a hiking trip. To maneuver the trails the plan was to divide us into 2 groups, theoretically 10 in each, one left over. Group 1 went first and became the fast people. Group 2, in a nutshell, were the gimpy ones or by default the slow ones. We were labeled. Of course the high achievers pressed on to Group 1 not wanted any stigma or to show weakness. Now a month prior my slight knee injury became inflamed and painful; I sought the orthopedic guy. Even with a cortisone shot I needed to be cautious and wear a knee brace. Group 2 for me, no question! Additionally the tour leader was so discouraging regards the trail difficulties; seems he’s had enough with people’s missteps on these treacherous paths. Our little Group varied in size from 5 to 7 people. Another reason I did not want to be with Gr. 1 is my dislike of the jostling that goes on when hiking anywhere with a large group. Hearing the presenter was no problem as we had cool hearing devices. The devices also helped to let you know if you were to far behind as static increased (or Daniel told you to keep up). I knew when I signed up that I would not do at least 2-3 of the walks. We had a lovely group and kept running into Group 1 – were they lollygagging? But they had status as numero uno and looked at us with pity, but actually I think it was envy as we were having a good time.
One particular hard trail had a long steep section down a narrow gully filled with sharp lava stones. And it was wet. Daniel cautioned us to be careful and we were. Not only did you not want to slip and wrench an ankle, but a fall means a face plant on those rocks! Dental work! So cautious we were, i.e. slow. What I did not anticipate were hiking pole problems. In order to fit in my suitcase I took my pole collapsible with bungee cords; if done right I can snap it out (then just have to use my hands to fit the sections securely tight). Well the mud between the rocks where I’d plant my pole held the tip tight. So when I went to move forward my pole just stretched out. I found it pretty funny; I could sort of pump it for effect sort of like exercising triceps. But son’t want to snap those bungees or I’m in trouble! We were ecstatic reaching flat land. Bet group 1 didn’t laugh as much.
What transpired was Group 2, all female, found we got along quite well. Strong women, career women, ones who don’t take kindly to being ordered about. A cohesiveness was formed that kept us together at dinners, somewhat dependent on table arrangements. Many times there was a separate table for 6; I’m uncertain if the high achievers avoided it or we sought it out. I suspect they considered us a ‘problem’ group; I think group 1 feared us. “We are women, hear us roar!” No, more like we are women, watch us question your male authority. We laughed, but we also chatted with our expert guides, paused to wonder at the plants, talked with each other, learned and most of all enjoyed our company.
Let me recap briefly: our tour leader is not to be confused with the presenters and guides who accompanied us and changed on the other island. Leader Daniel Torres is a British born occasional musician/songwriter living in London, currently a tour leader thru nepotism. His uncle owns Study Journeys which is contracted to conduct tours for RS. He has not lived in Portugal, has no tourist guide training and speaks Portuguese as he lived in Brazil. His touring skills proved somewhat lacking , not a polished as other leaders I’ve had. This may be due to lack of training. What became clear is that he doesn’t deal well with women questioning his male role. Now I’m sure most leaders don’t want the group questioning every action especially on a tour where their is a plan and a schedule to adhere to. But females know when they’re not valued and respected.
Our little group included pharmaceutical project manager, avid Sierra Club Hiker, psychiatric nurse, International Trade Services expert, IT professional, nurse who sets up Third World nursing schools, the South American who came to this country for an MBA and stayed to work. Only one had been married. Very interesting group and we hardly tapped into their stories and experiences. And no, this was not a gang of butch lesbians! (Not that there’s anything wrong with that, ala Seinfeld.)
Then there was Laura. 85 years old but fitter than all the rest, a tiny person traveling with a small suitcase. She visited 100 countries. Laura takes only $20 and a charge card with her; this proved a problem as we were instructed to have 25 to 35 Euros for our outgoing Covid test required for U.S. reentry. Due to impaired hearing he shouts at everyone. Chinese, she came to this country for university, met a Chinese man, got a job and stayed. On introductions she adamantly stated her employment with the U.N. Secretariat. With a heavy accent and broken English after 42 years living here I wondered about her U.N. job; turns out she worked in accounting. Nevertheless rank is extremely important to Laura. Daniel wanted her to stay back with group 2 on hikes. He literally had to physically guide her on assents and descents so was concerned about her abilities. On one hike she fled Group 2 running up the hill – she must be with Group 1! Oh humiliation getting demoted to #2! And I’ve never seen anyone consume such massive quantities of food. I am so envious! On the flight from Boston she requested a second order of dinner. At breakfast she sat at her own table with 3 full plates of food and consumed it all. At dinners she eagerly took unfinished food from other diners. Shades of Little Otik, the tree stump who comes to life in that wonderful Czech horror movie. A highpoint (think I really mean low point) was reached in our last restaurant; she accused the staff of giving her less food because she is small. her plate had fewer sardines than that of other diners. Have you ever? She wanted her money’s worth. In reality she should be paying more based on how much she eats. At least the waitstaff won’t belittle Americans as she wore her nationality on her sleeve, so to say.
But seriously, I shouldn’t be too critical of Laura. At that same restaurant it took sooooo long for my vegetarian meal. I resorted to taking the unfinished veggies from my good neighbors. They had finished their meals and I had not yet been served. When my over steamed veggies on a bed of hard rice arrived I was sated.
For me this was the most enjoyable group of individuals on any trip. Yes, maybe we should have toned it down just a tad. But whenever I glanced at the other tables the faces were stiff, the conversation tone very civilized low key, and no smiles. Laughter is more beneficial than the clear Azorean air. After the pandemic lockdown there has been almost no interaction; the dog doesn’t tell me funny stories, there haven’t been light hearted exchanges among friends. We did not run around naked, curse a blue streak or fall over drunk. No, we were women sharing experiences and havin’ fun.
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